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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing an essential oil of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle curds, as well as its cosmetic use for the care of the skin, in particular to fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and / or drying of the skin.
    公开号:FR3079144A1
    申请号:FR1852359
    申请日:2018-03-20
    公开日:2019-09-27
    发明作者:Pascal Portes；Charline Combes；Valerie Cenizo；Geraldine Lemaire；Virginie Rouquet
    申请人:Laboratoires M&L SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN IMMORTAL ESSENTIAL OIL AND AN OIL EXTRACT OF IMMORTELLE SEEDS
    FIELD OF THE INVENTION
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing an essential oil of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle grains, as well as its cosmetic use for caring for the skin, in particular for combating the cutaneous signs of aging.
    BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
    Women and men currently tend to want to look young for as long as possible and therefore seek to fade the marks of aging skin, which are reflected in particular by wrinkles and fine lines.
    The skin consists of two compartments, one superficial, the epidermis, and the other deeper, the dermis, which interact. The natural human epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, very majority, the melanocytes, and the cells of Langerhans. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin, in particular the role of protection of the body from external aggressions called "barrier function".
    The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinal layer of the epidermis, a so-called thorny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyaline grains, and finally the stratum corneum (or stratum comeum), consisting of a set of layers of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation and called corneocytes. There is constantly production in the epidermis of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. Homeostasis of the skin, and in particular of the epidermis, results from a finely regulated balance between the proliferation and differentiation processes of skin cells. These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epidermis. The homeostasis of the skin also participates in maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin.
    The speed and quality of renewal of the epidermis are however constantly modified by the physical and chemical aggressions to which the skin is subjected, as well as by aging.
    Thus, the cell vitality of keratinocytes can be reduced in particular in the context of aging or because of oxidative stress (for example solar radiation, ie UV, visible, infrared, blue light), because of the aggression of the epidermis by toxins or metabolites of the microflora, or, more generally, during chronological aging. Specifically, the regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less important, that is to say that the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, which leads to a slowing down and / or a decrease in epidermal renewal which no longer compensates the loss of cells eliminated on the surface. This results in an atrophy of the epidermis and / or a reduction in the thickness of the skin. Alterations in epidermal homeostasis also result in a dull and / or cloudy appearance of the complexion. An alteration in the barrier function is also observed, which manifests itself by different signs depending on the location: dry skin, hyperkeratosis, thin epidermis, thin lips, superficial wrinkles.
    The alteration of the skin barrier observed with age is also linked to the loosening of cell cohesion in the epidermis, leading to weakening and dehydration of the epidermis. An increase in the expression of proteins involved in the differentiation and adhesion of keratinocytes promotes the formation and tightness of the skin barrier, which allows, on the one hand, to maintain the hydration of the skin, and, on the other hand, to protect the skin from external aggressions and to counteract its aging. Such genes are in particular the genes coding for Transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), an enzyme capable of catalyzing the bond between the precursors of the corneal envelope and the cell membrane, and which plays a key role in epidermal differentiation.
    We therefore understand the advantage of having a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to increase epidermal differentiation without appreciably affecting the pool of basal cells, in order to delay the appearance of signs of skin aging or to slow their progression and also to prevent or treat skin dryness.
    The Applicant has already proposed using an immortelle essential oil, rich in terpene compounds, to strengthen the barrier function (WO 2012/153064), in combination with an aqueous extract and an oily extract of immortelle. The oily extract of immortelle is obtained for example by microwave extraction and is characterized in that it contains at least 99% by weight of fatty acids and from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of phytosterols.
    For its part, document FR 2 819 718 describes a lipid extract of a plant, in particular of immortelle, obtained by extraction with supercritical CO 2, in the presence of a solvent composed of triglycerides of plant origin (caprylic / capric triglycerides). After removal of the solvent and addition of a waxy compound, it has been demonstrated that this lipid extract acts on cell differentiation in the manner of retinoic acid, by increasing the expression of the CRABP-II gene coding for the binding protein cell retinoic acid, as well as for endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and that this extract stimulated the division (proliferation) of keratinocytes. On the other hand, it is emphasized that the lipid extract inhibits (-61%) the expression of genes coding for the proteins usually expressed during epidermal differentiation, such as transglutaminase 1 (TGM1).
    SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
    In this context, the Applicant has quite surprisingly highlighted a stimulation, in a synergistic manner, of the genes regulating epidermal differentiation when the essential oil of immortelle was associated with an oily extract of immortelle obtained specifically from immortelle seeds, in particular an increase in the expression of the gene coding for the protein TGM1.
    More specifically, the Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of an oily extract of immortelle seeds with an immortelle essential oil leads to a synergistic increase in the expression of the differentiation markers which constitute transglutaminase 1, cytokeratin 10, involucrine, filaggrin, cathepsin L2 and loricrin. It thus appeared to the Applicant that the aforementioned combination made it possible to formulate a cosmetic composition effective against the signs of skin aging and / or drying of the skin.
    In this context, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle grains.
    It also relates to the non-therapeutic use of the aforementioned composition to slow the onset, reduce the progression or reduce the intensity of the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of flexibility and / or d elasticity of the skin, thinning of the skin, roughness of the skin and / or loss of radiance of the complexion; or to prevent or treat dry skin.
    The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for slowing the appearance, reducing the progression or reducing the intensity of the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of flexibility and / or elasticity. of the skin, thinning of the skin, roughness of the skin and / or loss of radiance of the complexion, or to prevent or treat drying of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the above-mentioned composition .
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION
    The present invention uses an immortelle essential oil and an oily extract of immortelle grains.
    Among the immortelle species capable of being independently used to prepare the essential oil and the oily extract of spent grains, we will cite all those belonging to the genus Helichrysum and in particular Helichrysum italicum (or Helichrysum angustifolium DC), which is the Italian immortal, Helichrysum arenarium, which is the immortal of sands, and Helichrysum stoechas or common immortal, without this list being exhaustive. An essential oil ^ Helichrysum italicum is preferably used, whatever the subspecies considered.
    The term essential oil is understood to mean in this description the product of hydrodistillation or of water vapor entrainment of volatile organic compounds present in any part of the immortelle or of the whole plant, and more particularly in its aerial parts. like for example its flowers or flowering tops. In these processes, the odor molecules contained in the plant are released and mechanically entrained with the water vapor which is either formed by boiling the water to which the plant is added (conventional hydrodistillation), or formed by boiling the water contained in the plant (hydrodistillation by microwave, possibly under vacuum), is still supplied by a boiler and circulated through the plant (water vapor entrainment). The distillate is then decanted to separate the essential oil used according to the invention from the hydrosol (or floral water). The solid residue which constitutes the grains can be recovered and treated to prepare the oily extract of immortelle grains also used in the present invention.
    The immortelle essential oil advantageously represents from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
    It is associated, in this composition, with an oily extract of immortelle grains. By grains is meant the solid residue remaining after hydrodistillation or entrainment in water vapor of any part of the immortelle and separation of the essential oil and the hydrosol produced. The oily extract of grains can be obtained by any oil extraction process and more particularly by extraction of grains using a supercritical fluid, such as carbon dioxide, nitrogen monoxide, dimethyl ether. , propane, ethylene or methanol, without this list being exhaustive. It is preferred to use carbon dioxide in the supercritical state. Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the extraction parameters and in particular the temperature, the pressure and the flow rate of the fluid as a function of the desired extraction speed and yield. For example, extraction using supercritical CO2 can be carried out at a pressure of 250 to 300 bars and at a temperature of 40 to 80 ° C, preferably 50 to 70 ° C. After extraction, the supercritical fluid is brought back to the gaseous state by decompression and generally recycled. The plant extract thus obtained is advantageously then subjected to a molecular distillation step, for example at a temperature of 180 to 250 ° C, preferably from 200 to 220 ° C, in order to concentrate the unsaponifiables present in the extract. Before this molecular distillation step, the plant extract can be optionally diluted in an oily solvent, in particular based on vegetable oil such as sunflower oil. This oily solvent is removed during the molecular distillation step. A distillate is thus obtained containing in particular 30 to 50% by weight, more particularly 35 to 45% by weight, of unsaponifiables and from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 7% by weight, of sterols, mainly beta-sitosterol.
    The extract obtained using the supercritical fluid or the distillate resulting from the molecular distillation step can optionally be diluted in a solvent, at a concentration of 1 to 10% by weight, for example, in particular from 3 to 5% by weight, to facilitate its handling. All oily solvents which can be used in cosmetics can be used for this purpose, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride.
    The Applicant has characterized the oily extract of immortelle grains by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. It has thus been demonstrated that the oily extract of immortelle grains used according to the invention differs, in terms of its composition, from an extract obtained by supercritical CO2 from flowering tops of immortelle by the fact that it did not contain substantially (i.e. less than 10% by weight, even less than 5% by weight or even less than 2% by weight), if at all, palmitoleic acid, linalool, 2- decenal, 2tridecanone, heptadecane, 8-heptadecene, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, hexadecenol, lauric acid, pentadecanoic acid, decanoic acid and isostearic acid. Conversely, the oily extract of immortelle grains used according to the invention contains constituents which have not been identified in an extract obtained by supercritical CO2 from flowering tops of immortelle, namely acid 2 (Z). -decenoic acid and 4 (Z) -decenoic acid. In addition, by comparison with an immortelle essential oil, the oily extract of immortelle drafts used according to the invention contains sterols, essentially betasitosterol, linear carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C7-C10 (in particularly heptanoic, octenoic and decenoic acids), benzoic acid and ethyl esters of linear fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in Cs-Cis (in particular caprylate, caprate, laurate and linoleate).
    Such an extract is identified in particular under the name INCI: HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM FLOWER STEM EXTRACT.
    The oily extract of immortelle grains represents advantageously from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
    As is apparent from the examples below, it has been demonstrated that the combination of plant extracts according to the invention makes it possible to synergistically activate the expression of the genes involved in the regulation of epidermal differentiation.
    By synergy, it is understood in the context of this description that the effect obtained using the combination of extracts according to the invention is significantly greater than the effect obtained using any of the two extracts and possibly greater than the sum effects produced by each of the extracts.
    The above combination is included in a cosmetic composition which contains a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular cosmetically acceptable, that is to say which does not generate tingling or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. This medium preferably contains an aqueous phase and a fatty phase (generally containing the essential oil of immortelle and the oily extract of immortelle grains). It is preferred that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.
    The aqueous phase contains water and optionally at least one constituent chosen from polyols and aqueous gelling agents. Water advantageously represents from 40 to 80%, for example from 50 to 70%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol can in particular be chosen from glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and their mixtures and it can represent from 5 to 30%, preferably from 15 to 25%, of the total weight of the composition.
    The term “aqueous gelling agent” denotes a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating and thus increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such a gelling agent can be chosen from: polysaccharides, such as: cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenan, agar agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar or carob gum; synthetic polymers and in particular homopolymers of optionally crosslinked sodium acrylate, as well as acrylic copolymers, in particular copolymers of sodium acrylate and / or alkyl (meth) acrylate and / or d (meth) acrylate hydroxyalkyl and / or (meth) acrylate of (polyethoxy) alkyl, with optionally at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers being optionally crosslinked; and their mixtures.
    For its part, the fatty phase may comprise one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes. As non-volatile oils, there may be mentioned in particular:
    - the esters of acids and of mono-alcohol chosen from: the mono- and polyesters of saturated linear acids in C2-C10 (preferably in C6-C10) and of linear saturated mono-alcohols in C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of C10-C20 saturated linear acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated acids in C5-C20 and of linear mono-alcohols in C2-C4;
    - triglycerides of fatty acids C6-C12, such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triheptanoin;
    - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids);
    - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
    - hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl5);
    - dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;
    - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and
    - their mixtures.
    Mention may also be made of vegetable oils which contain one or more of the above-mentioned constituents.
    As esters of acids and monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate, ethyl macadamate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof. Other esters which can be used are the diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.
    Examples of vegetable oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, Echium, camelina or camellia .
    The fatty phase can also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent. The term “fatty phase structuring agent” means a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, gelling agents for fatty phases and pasty fatty substances, as well as their mixtures.
    According to a preferred embodiment, this composition also contains at least one anti-aging active agent other than an immortelle extract, in particular an active agent suitable for preventing and / or treating wrinkles, sagging skin and / or formation of pigment spots, which can in particular be chosen from anti-radical agents, agents stimulating the differentiation and / or proliferation of keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts; agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and / or collagen and / or dermo-epidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; agents preventing degradation of collagen and / or glycosaminoglycans and / or dermo-epidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; anti-glycation agents; depigmenting agents and / or inhibiting melanogenesis; and their mixtures.
    Examples of such anti-aging active agents are in particular: ascorbic acid, its salts, its ethers and its esters, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; adenosine; ribose; honey extracts; proteins and glycoproteins, especially extracted from sweet almonds; hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, in particular from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupine; polypeptides and pseudodipeptides, such as carcinin hydrochloride, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 sold in particular by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl® 3000 and Matrixyl ® Synthe'6, respectively, the palmitoyl tripeptide-8 marketed by the company LUCAS MEYER under the commercial reference Nutrazen®, the pentapeptide-18 marketed by the company LIPOTEC under the trade name Leuphasyl® Solution, the sh-decapeptide-9 marketed by SANDREAM under the trade name Neoendorphin® and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 marketed by the company INFINITEC under the trade reference X50 Myocept® Powder; silanes such as methylsilanol mannuronate; arabinoxylans, extracted in particular from rye flour and galactoarabinanes, produced in particular from larch; hyaluronic acid and its salts; polyphenols, extracted in particular from mimosa; alphahydroxy acids, including those extracted from lemon; extracts (generally aqueous) of plants such as water clover, wild pansy, field horsetail, Mafane (Acmella oleracea), donkey thistle (Onopordum acanthium), millefeuille (Achillea millefoliiim, contained in particular in the product Neurobiox® from the company BASF), the embelia (Embelia concinna, as marketed by the company SEPPIC), the prickly pear (Opuntia ficus indica, marketed in particular by MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY under the trade name AquaCacteen®), the sage (Salvia officinalis, sold in particular by PROVITAL GROUP), Vitex negundo (marketed in particular by LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE under the commercial reference Neurovity®), chestnut, papaya, argan, oats, sunflower, daisy, peony or dill; aqueous extracts of algae and in particular of coralline, red janie, AUngaria pinnatifada, dAlaria esculenta or Nannochlorosis oculata essential oils, in particular myrtle; zinc and / or copper gluconates; and their mixtures.
    As a variant or in addition, the composition used according to the invention may comprise at least one tensioning agent. It can be a tightening polymer, capable of tightening the skin by mechanical action and thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular a polysaccharide, in particular an extract of algae or plankton. marine or vegetable gum. It can also be a tightening agent acting biologically of the "botox-like" type, for example, an extract & Acmella oleracea sold under the name of Gatuline® Expression by the company GATTEFOSSE; an extract of hibiscus seeds marketed under the name of Myoxinol® LS9736 by the company BASF BCS or also a peptide of type Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 marketed under the name of Argireline® by the company Lipotec.
    The composition according to the invention may also contain different constituents which can be dispersed in the fatty phase and / or in the aqueous phase of the emulsion, provided that these are compatible with topical application to the skin.
    It can thus contain at least one oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, generally nonionic, such as polyoxyethylene esters, sorbitan esters optionally polyethoxylated, fatty acid esters of glycerol possibly polyethoxylated, ethers of fatty alcohols and sugar such as alkyl glucosides, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifiers can represent from 2 to 10% and preferably from 4 to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more pulverulent fillers, which advantageously take the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These charges can in particular be chosen from:
    - organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccharides and in particular of native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins; dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis
    - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;
    - and their mixtures.
    As the inorganic filler, it is preferred to use silica.
    These fillers can represent from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention can also comprise additives chosen in particular from organic and / or inorganic photoprotective agents, active in blue light and / or UVA and / or UVB; film-forming polymers based on polysaccharides, capable of forming an anti-pollution protective film, such as the products marketed by SOLABIA under the trade names Pollustop® and Solashield®; desquamating agents such as a- and βhydroxy acids; exfoliating particles; perfumes ; antioxidants; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; dyes; and their mixtures.
    This composition can be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin and in particular in the form of milk, cream, lotion, gel, paste or film. It is generally a leave-in composition and in particular a care composition, a makeup composition, such as a foundation, or a sunscreen composition.
    The composition according to the invention can be applied to at least one area of the body of a person showing signs of aging and / or skin dryness (for example at least 30 years, or even at least 40 years, and more particularly on the face, neck and / or décolleté. As a variant, it can be applied to the hands. As a further variant, it can be applied to the whole body, in particular to the bust, arms, legs and the belly, in order to fight against the signs of aging and / or drying of the skin.
    This composition can be applied once or several times a day, for example morning and / or evening, to the areas to be treated.
    As a variant, the composition according to the invention may be a rinsed composition used for caring for the skin, in particular the face and possibly the body. In this case, it can for example be used as a mask or as a scrub paste.
    FIGURES
    FIG. 1 illustrates the level of expression of the genes coding for transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), cytokeratin 10 (KRT10) and involucrine (IVL), expressed by keratinocytes in culture treated with the composition according to the invention, by compared to an untreated witness.
    FIG. 2 illustrates the level of expression of the genes coding for filaggrin (FLG), cathepsin 2 (CSTL2) and loricrin (LOR), expressed by keratinocytes in culture treated with the composition according to the invention, relative to an untreated witness.
    FIG. 3 illustrates the level of expression of the genes coding for the antigen identified by the monoclonal antibody Ki-67 (MKI67), the integrin βΐ (ITGB1) and the integrin a6 (ITGA6), expressed by keratinocytes in culture treated with the composition according to the invention, compared with an untreated control.
    EXAMPLES
    The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.
    Example 1: In vitro test on primary culture of human keratinocytes: Effect on epidermal differentiation of the combination according to the invention
    1. Materials & Method
    Was used in the tests below an essential oil üHelichrysum italicum obtained by steam training of the flowering tops of the plant and an oily extract of immortelle grains obtained from the residue of steam training. This extract was prepared by extraction of the residue (grains) with supercritical CO2 at a temperature of 60 ° C and under a pressure of 285 bars. The unsaponifiables thus obtained were diluted in sunflower oil, then subjected to a molecular distillation step at 200 ° C. and the resulting distillate was standardized by diluting it to the extent of
    3-5% by weight in caprylic / capric triglycerides.
    a) Cell culture
    Keratinocytes in primary culture, originating from a female donor of a breast biopsy, were seeded in 96-well plates (Nunc) at a rate of 12,000 cells per well in the keratinocyte Serum-Free Medium medium (KSFM, Gibco) with 50 pg / ml of pituitary gland extract (Gibco), 5 mg / ml EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor, Gibco) and 100 pg / ml of normocin (Invivogen). The cells were maintained for 3 days in culture at 37 ° C. and 5% of CO 2 before being treated with the oily extract of immortelle grains, immortelle essential oil and their association.
    b) Cytotoxicity of immortelle essential oil, of the oily extract of immortelle grains and their combination
    After 72 hours of culture, the medium was changed, with or without the presence of immortelle essential oil at 0.0005%, the oily extract of immortelle spent grains at 0.001% and their association. For each concentration, a culture was carried out on 6 identical wells.
    The culture was maintained for 4 days and the medium containing the study compounds was changed 3 times (daily) during the culture time.
    After 4 days of culture, the culture medium was removed and replaced by a medium containing a solution of XTT (sodium salt of 2,3-bis (2-methoxy-4-nitro-5sulfophenyl) -5 - [(phenylamino ) carbonyl] -2H-tetrazolium). The cells were incubated with this solution for 2 h at 37 ° C and 5% CO2.
    At the end of the incubation period, absorbance was measured at 450 nm using a Varioskan® microplate reader.
    Cell viability was calculated as follows:
    % viability = (average of OD treatment - blank) / (average of OD without treatment - blank) X 100
    The toxicity threshold was set at 85% of the value of the control without treatment.
    c) RNA extraction
    After measuring the absorbance for cell viability, the medium containing the XTT solution was removed and replaced with a buffer (Buffer RLT, Qiagen) containing 1% β-mercaptoethanol (VWR). The cells, after being lysed, were frozen at -80 ° C. In order to have enough RNA to perform the real-time PCR analyzes, 3 wells were pooled per condition and 2 separate RNA extractions were carried out according to the RNeasy mini kit (Qiagen) protocol with incubation at DNase I to remove genomic DNA. The quantity of RNAs was measured using a NanoView spectrophotometer and the quality of the RNAs was checked by micro-capillary electrophoresis using the Bioanalyzer 2100 (Agilent Technologies).
    d) Retrotranscription-PCR
    400 ng of RNAs were back transcribed into cDNA using the AffinityScript QPCR cDNA synthesis kit (Agilent technologies). Real-time PCR was performed in duplicate for each condition using the MXP 3005 system (Agilent technologies). The amplification kit used was Brilliant III Ultra-Fast SYBR Green QPCR Master Mix (Agilent technologies)
    The primers used came from Bio-Rad: transglutaminase 1 (TGM1, qHsaCED0056475), keratin 10 (KRT10, qHsaCED0034304), involucrine (IVL, qHsaCED0046054), filaggrine (FLG, qHsaCED0036604), catSTsine 2 (cHIS2) LOR, qHsaCED0048415), integrin βΐ (ITGB1, qHsaCED0005248) and integrin a6 (ITGA6, qHsaCED0042632) household genes TATA box binding protein (TBP, qHsaCID0007122) and ribosomal protein L13a (RPL13A, qHsaCED0050) gene of interest.
    2. Results
    The extracts tested separately, as well as their mixture, have been shown to have no cytotoxicity (cell viability> 85%).
    Furthermore, it has been demonstrated (Figures 1 and 2) that the expression of genes involved in epidermal differentiation and barrier function (TGM1, KRT10, IVL, FLG, CSTL2 and LOR) is increased synergistically using the combination of the two extracts (immortelle essential oil and oily extract of immortelle grains), compared to each extract taken separately. The expression of these genes is multiplied by a factor of 3 to 24 with this combination, while these genes are not appreciably overexpressed by each of the extracts. This effect is particularly pronounced for the gene coding for loricrin, and to a lesser extent for the gene coding for involucrine, which are respectively insoluble and soluble proteins essential for the formation of the corneal envelope and participating in the barrier function. of the epidermis, linked to each other by TGM1 which is a calcium-dependent enzyme. There is also a very strong overexpression of the gene coding for filaggrin, which constitutes a cement between the keratin filaments also constituting the stratum corneum and precursor of the natural hydration factor (NMF).
    Furthermore, as appears from FIG. 3, no change in the expression of the markers of undifferentiated keratinocytes (ITGA6 and ITGB1) is observed, which suggests in particular that the combination according to the invention preserves a constant pool of proliferative cells. , thus ensuring epidermal renewal.
    This example thus demonstrates that the combination according to the invention makes it possible to effectively fight against aging of the skin and to reinforce the barrier function of the skin.
    Example 2 Cosmetic Composition
    The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients below in the weight proportions indicated.
    Immortelle essential oil 0.1% Oily extract of immortelle grains 0.1% adenosine 0.04% Oils 5-15% Oily gelling agents 1-5% Aqueous gelling agentspolyols 1-3%20-25% sequesteringAntioxidantsPerfume qsqsqs conservatives qs Water qs 100%
    权利要求:
    Claims (10)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an immortelle essential oil and an oily extract of immortelle grains.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the immortelle used in the preparation of the essential oil and the oily extract is independently chosen from the species Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum arenarium and Helichrysum sloechas, preferably Helichrysum italicum.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the essential oil of immortelle is obtained from the aerial parts of the plant, in particular from its flowers or flowering tops.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle grains is obtained by extraction of grains using a supercritical fluid, preferably carbon dioxide to the supercritical state, the extract obtained then possibly being subjected to a molecular distillation step.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle grains is diluted in a solvent such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the immortelle essential oil represents from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle drafts contains sterols, essentially betasitosterol, linear carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C7-C10 (in particularly heptanoic, octenoic and decenoic acids), benzoic acid and ethyl esters of linear fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in Cs-Cis (in particular caprylate, caprate, laurate and linoleate).
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle grains represents from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Non-therapeutic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for slowing the appearance, reducing the progression or decreasing the intensity of the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of flexibility. and / or elasticity of the skin, thinning of the skin, roughness of the skin and / or loss of radiance of the complexion; or to prevent or treat dry skin.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Cosmetic process to slow the onset, reduce the progression or decrease the intensity of the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin, thinning of the skin, roughness of the skin and / or loss of radiance of the complexion, or to prevent or treat drying of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    CN111886052B|2021-10-15|
    EP3768391B1|2022-01-05|
    KR20200124306A|2020-11-02|
    CN111886052A|2020-11-03|
    FR3079144B1|2020-12-25|
    KR102318173B1|2021-10-26|
    EP3768391A1|2021-01-27|
    JP2021509913A|2021-04-08|
    WO2019180368A1|2019-09-26|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    FR2819718A1|2001-01-22|2002-07-26|Codif Internat Sa|COSMETIC PRODUCT|
    FR2975006A1|2011-05-09|2012-11-16|Occitane Losa L|COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON IMMORTELAL EXTRACTS AND USE THEREOF|
    FR3003167A1|2013-03-15|2014-09-19|M & L Lab|COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AND USE THEREOF|FR3107184A1|2020-02-17|2021-08-20|Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic|Lysateof dedifferentiated cells from the plant Helichrysum stoechas that can be administered topically to eliminate or reduce inflammation of the skin|KR101047769B1|2009-08-31|2011-07-07|아모레퍼시픽|Cosmetic composition for promoting skin regeneration containing fermented extract of Immorium flowers and royal jelly|
    CN104323949A|2014-11-12|2015-02-04|福建春辉生物工程有限公司|Acne-removing compound essential oil|
    FR3043329B1|2015-11-06|2019-11-15|Laboratoires M&L|COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AND USE THEREOF|
    FR3053250B1|2016-07-01|2020-11-27|Laboratoires M&L|USE OF IMMORTELLE ESSENTIAL OIL TO INCREASE OR RESTORE SKIN TOUCH PERCEPTION|KR102291780B1|2020-12-22|2021-08-24|주식회사 꼼퍼니|Functional cosmetic composition for preventing skin aging and healing wounds containing natural substances and method for manufacturing the same|
    法律状态:
    2019-03-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2019-09-27| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20190927 |
    2020-03-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-03-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1852359A|FR3079144B1|2018-03-20|2018-03-20|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ESSENTIAL OIL OF IMMORTELLE AND AN OILY EXTRACT OF IMMORTELLE DRAIN|
    FR1852359|2018-03-20|FR1852359A| FR3079144B1|2018-03-20|2018-03-20|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ESSENTIAL OIL OF IMMORTELLE AND AN OILY EXTRACT OF IMMORTELLE DRAIN|
    PCT/FR2019/050618| WO2019180368A1|2018-03-20|2019-03-19|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and an oily extract of immortelle husks|
    KR1020207029703A| KR102318173B1|2018-03-20|2019-03-19|Cosmetic composition comprising essential oil of immortel and oily extract of immortel bark|
    CN201980019747.2A| CN111886052B|2018-03-20|2019-03-19|Cosmetic composition containing essential oil of perpetual flower and oily extract of distillation residue of perpetual flower|
    JP2020550733A| JP7001836B2|2018-03-20|2019-03-19|A cosmetic composition containing an oily extract of the essential oil of Immortelle and the distillation residue of Immortelle.|
    EP19718781.8A| EP3768391B1|2018-03-20|2019-03-19|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of everlasting and an extract of everlasting's spent grains|
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